去年底，我們全家一起去泰國清邁度假。清邁以悠閒的步調和文創的氛圍而聞名，爸爸因此對清邁的「慢活」十分嚮往，但是身為一位高能量人士，爸爸最後排出來的行程卻不甚「慢活」——雖然不至於像前年在柬埔寨一樣天天凌晨五點起床，但也十分充實精彩。沒有預想中在文青咖啡店看一下午書之類的典型「慢活」行程，卻扎扎實實地體驗了一把泰北的歷史人文、自然風光。
清邁是泰國第二大城市、泰北最大的政治經濟中心，但跟我熟悉的台灣都市相比，清邁感覺比較像個鄉村——沒有林立的高樓大廈或是四通八達的大眾運輸，取而代之是安靜的街道、莊嚴的寺廟，和五顏六色的突突車。清邁的古城城牆、坍塌的柴迪隆寺、清邁門前的小吃夜市，都讓我想起了吳哥窟與暹粒，帶著東南亞獨特的歷史底蘊和鮮活的煙火氣。雖然我們的行程不是特別慢活，但是無論是清邁整座城市的節奏還是我們沿途碰到的清邁人，都向我們展示著這座城市慢活的魅力。比方說，有一天我們到毗鄰清邁府的南邦和南奔參觀寺廟古蹟。我們的導遊暱稱叫 Som（泰文「橘子」的意思），是位很可愛的中年婦女。她一見到我們就不好意思地說她不常帶團去南奔和南邦，對當地的寺廟不甚熟悉。我一聽之下驚詫不已，因為在美國，尤其是矽谷，大家都是「Fake it until you make it.」如果在美國碰到相同的情況，那導遊一定是硬著頭皮上、牛皮吹得天花亂墜，絕對不會讓你發現他其實人生地不熟。Som 的坦白招認，反而令人感到真摯可愛，而且她一路上不斷用手機搜尋當地的歷史典故跟我們分享，結合她本身對泰北文化和宗教的豐富知識，並不會令人質疑她的業務能力。到了南邦之後，我們先去了當地的市集，Som 跟我們介紹了當地的小吃和點心後，我們這些觀光客還沒掏錢，她自己就先喜孜孜地買上了，說是難得來一次南邦，要多買一些她女兒喜歡的零嘴。她是一位虔誠的佛教徒，在跟我們解說寺廟的建築和泰國的佛教文化時，雙眼散發著專注明亮的光芒，還帶著爸爸拿著蠟燭在南邦鑾寺的大佛塔走了三圈祈禱。一天下來，Som 感覺不太像帶團跑線的導遊，反而比較像位萍水相逢的熱情當地人，跟著我們一起逛市集、向我們介紹她虔誠信仰的宗教和她的修行。行程結束後，她拎著比我們還多的伴手禮跟我們道別時，她臉上幸福的笑容感染了我們每一個人——即使她自稱對南邦和南奔的瞭解不多，她的真誠和專注依然帶給我們美好的體驗。
此行的另一大收穫就是真正認識了泰國。套句爸爸的話：「原來我們之前都不了解泰國。」造訪清邁之前，我對泰國的印象大多來自媒體：豐富的夜生活（和紅燈區）、人妖表演、頻繁的軍事政變、嚴厲的「不敬王室罪」、危險的金三角。在清邁一整個禮拜，我們一件也沒碰上。泰國其實存在著許多區域差異，十九世紀末曼谷王朝統一暹羅之前，清邁是強盛的蘭納王國的首府，擁有自己獨特的文化、方言、建築……等。直至今日，清邁人除了認同自己是泰國人之外，也自稱「蘭納人」。我們對泰國的刻板印象大多來自南方的曼谷、普吉島、芭達雅，而泰北和這些地區大不相同（曉彤去過曼谷，證實了南北差異）。舉吃為例，我以前對泰國菜的印象是美國的紅黃綠咖喱和台灣的月亮蝦餅，但是泰北的國民美食其實是受到雲南、緬甸、印度影響的泰北咖喱麵、糯米飯、香蕉煎餅。除此之外，雖然曼谷和芭達雅的派對文化十分興盛，但是清邁相對保守，除了清邁大學、寧曼路等觀光區比較熱鬧之外，完全不符合媒體所描述泰國狂歡天堂的形象。最後，雖然泰國的軍事政變時常佔據國際新聞的版面，但是對於普通民眾（尤其是距離曼谷七百公里遠的清邁）的日常生活似乎影響甚微。大部分的泰國人樂天質樸、虔誠禮佛，無論政壇如何風雲變色，依然勤勤懇懇、踏踏實實地過日子，我們在茵他儂山的嚮導就告訴我們，雖然泰國政壇弊端叢生，但是他最喜歡泰國的一點就是老百姓都很善良，也總是互相照應，而我們在這趟旅程中，也有幸感受到了泰國人民的真誠和溫暖。
爸爸安排的行程囊括了各式各樣的深度體驗：遊平河、泰北料理烹飪課、大象保護區、釣魚、各地的寺廟、茵他儂山健行、傳統手工藝、泰式按摩，還有數不清的美食與夜市，每一天都新鮮又充實。曉彤和 Steven 最喜歡烹飪課，爸爸最熱衷於參觀寺廟，而我印象最深刻的是大象保護區。自從去了坦尚尼亞之後，我就對大型動物情有獨鍾，我們在塞倫蓋蒂最後一天看到的象群行進，更是撼人心魄，我彷彿可以一直看著牠們在莽原上走到天荒地老。在清邁近郊的大象保護區，訪客可以和大象近距離互動。保護區強調人道、保育與尊重，所以沒有騎乘與表演，而是透過與大象在自然環境中互動，讓我們理解牠們的日常生活。我們一整天的行程，基本上就是餵食、陪大象散步、看牠們邊散步邊繼續吃，回來吃完午飯後，下午繼續陪大象散步、玩水、玩泥巴，臨走之前再餵牠們一頓。對我來說，這大概是整趟旅程最「慢活」的行程了——我除了因為終於有機會近距離接觸大象而欣喜若狂之外，一整天的步調都十分輕鬆愜意。我們沒有所謂的行程表，基本上就是跟著象群走走停停。牠們看到好吃的要繞路去吃，我們就跟過去看著牠們吃；牠們看到涼爽的泥巴池要搶著去泡，我們就看著牠們在泥巴裡好一通互相推搡，直到有頭大象乾脆一屁股坐下，杜絕了同伴們試圖分享泥巴池的癡心妄想；牠們衝到河裡玩水，我們也跟著潑牠們水，結果最後我反而被淋了一鼻子水。一天下來，我什麼也不想，只專注於當下的體驗——象群的智慧與靈性再次感動了我，「慢活」所帶來的幸福感也溫暖了我的心。
自2009年負笈美國以來，我每年都期待回台灣探望家人。過去幾年，因為公司一年有四週遠距工作的福利，我在台灣的時間得以延長，有時間和家人們出門渡假，而這些全家一起出遊的假期，都是我最珍而重之藏於心底的回憶。2023年之前，我們最後一次全家出遊，是2012年底去高雄和小琉球。後來因為爸爸和弟弟的工作、媽媽的身體、新冠疫情等等因素，我們一家四散各地，直到媽媽2020年過世，我們全家都沒有機會再次出遊，成了我心底幽微的遺憾。2023年底，我們全家一起去了爸爸嚮往已久的京都，我才驚覺，過去十幾年的我如同一棵努力生長的大樹，拼命地把枝葉伸向天空、爭取更多陽光，一低頭才發現，我所有的養分和支撐都來自深埋地下的根——爸爸、弟弟、Steven，還有天上的媽媽，就是我的根。現在我的生活和經濟狀況日趨穩定，我想把時間和金錢花在對我來說最重要的事情上，也就是我的家人，所以又有了去年的柬埔寨和今年的清邁。希望我們全家年年有今日、歲歲有今朝。此外，每一次的旅行對我來說都是一次成長，讓我踏出熟悉的環境，探索廣袤的世界。透過認識其他地區的歷史和文化，我學會欣賞不同族群的智慧和生活方式，也時刻提醒自己保持一顆謙卑的心。總結過去幾年的旅行感悟，深覺「讀萬卷書，行萬里路」相輔相成，古人誠不我欺！
最後，不得不提令我大為驚艷的椰子冰。曉彤以前在曼谷吃過泰國的椰子冰，所以我們第一天一進夜市，他就睜著火眼金睛四處搜尋。一開始我以為一大份盛在椰子殼裡的冰淇淋不過是唬觀光客的噱頭，但我忘了身為前米其林大廚的曉彤自有一套高標準，尋常甜點根本入不了他的法眼，能令他費心尋找的甜點必有其獨到之處。我一嚐之下果然大為讚嘆——椰肉、椰子口味的冰淇淋、花生、斑蘭糯米，這四項食材分開來似乎平平無奇，但是放在一起卻是前所未有的滋味，清甜與微鹹交織，彷彿一口吃下了泰國夏天的海邊。結果就是我在清邁天天執著於吃冰——如果有機會再去泰國，我一定要再吃泰國的椰子冰！
Last December, my family went to Chiang Mai together for vacation. Chiang Mai is famous for its relaxed pace and vibrant creative industries, so my dad was really looking forward to the “slow living” vibes in Chiang Mai. However, as a high-energy person, he ended up with a very productive itinerary. (To be fair, it was not as intense as our trip to Cambodia in 2024, where we had to get up at 5 a.m. every day.) Instead of a typical “slow living” itinerary, where one may spend a whole afternoon reading or painting in a hipster cafe, we thoroughly experienced the history, culture, and natural scenery of Northern Thailand.
Chiang Mai is Thailand’s second-largest city and the political and economic center of Northern Thailand. However, compared to the bustling Taiwanese cities that I am used to, Chiang Mai feels more like a large village — it lacks towering skyscrapers or extensive public transportation systems, but it boasts quiet streets, solemn temples, and colorful tuk-tuks. The walls of the Old Town, the collapsed Wat Chedi Luang, and the night markets in front of Chiang Mai Gate all reminded me of Angkor Wat and Siem Reap, carrying a unique Southeast Asian historical charm and lively vibes. Although our itinerary wasn’t particularly “slow living,” the overall pace of the city itself and the locals we met truly showcased the city’s slow living charm. For example, one day we visited temples in Lampang and Lamphun, two provinces adjacent to Chiang Mai province. Our guide, nicknamed Som (meaning “orange” in Thai), was a lovely middle-aged woman. When we first met her, she was a bit flustered and told us she rarely led tours to Lampang and Lamphun, and therefore not very familiar with the local temples. I was shocked to hear this because in the US, especially in Silicon Valley, everyone “fake it until you make it.” Had this been in the US, the guide would definitely have bluffed, never letting you realize that they actually know nothing about the places. Som’s honest confession turned out to be quite genuine and endearing. Moreover, during the drive, she kept looking up local history and anecdotes on her phone to share with us. Combined with her extensive knowledge of Northern Thailand culture and religion, she did not come off as incompetent at all. When we arrived in Lampang, we first went to a local market, where Som introduced the local snacks and street food to us. Before we even bought anything, she cheerfully bought a bunch of snacks herself, saying that she wanted to take the opportunity stock up on her daughter’s favorite treats since she rarely comes to Lampang. Som is a devout Buddhist, and as she explained the temple architecture and Thai Buddhist traditions to us, I could see the bright light in her eyes — it was the kind of light you only see when someone talks about something they are truly passionate about. She even led my dad to lap around the large pagoda of Wat Phra That Lampang Luang three times and pray with candles, just like a local Buddhist. Throughout the day, Som didn’t feel like a tour guide leading a group of tourists. Instead, she feels more like a warm local to me, strolling through the market with us, introducing us to her religion and spiritual practices so close to her heart. When she said goodbye to us, carrying even more souvenirs than we did, her happy smile was contagious —even though she said she did not know much about Lampang and Lamphun, her authenticity and dedication still made our day.
One of my major takeaways from this trip is to truly get to know Thailand. To quote my dad, “We didn’t actually know anything about Thailand before this trip.” Before I visited Chiang Mai, my impressions of Thailand mostly came from the media: wild nightlife (with bustling red-light districts), ladyboy shows, frequent military coups, an extremely strict lèse-majesté law, and the dangerous Golden Triangle. During our entire week in Chiang Mai, we did not encounter any of these. There are actually many regional differences in Thailand. Before the Chakri Dynasty unified Siam in the late 19th century, Chiang Mai was the capital of the powerful Lan Na Kingdom, possessing its own unique culture, dialects, and architecture …etc. Even today, most Chiang Mai people refer to themselves as “Lan Na,” in addition to identifying themselves as Thai. Our stereotypes about Thailand mostly come from southern regions like Bangkok, Phuket, and Pattaya, but northern Thailand is quite different from these areas. (Hsiao-Tung has been to Bangkok and confirmed the differences between northern and southern Thailand.) Take Thai cuisine as an example — previously I only knew about red, yellow, and green curries from Thai restaurants in the US and moon shrimp cake from Thai restaurants in Taiwan. However, the most authentic Northern Thai dishes are actually khao soi (coconut curry noodle soup influenced by Yunnan, Myanmar, and India), sticky rice, and banana pancakes — none of which I knew about before. Further, while Bangkok and Pattaya have a thriving party culture, Chiang Mai is relatively conservative. Apart from tourist areas like Chiang Mai University and Nimman, Chiang Mai doesn’t quite match the image of Thailand as a party paradise portrayed in the media. Finally, although military coups in Thailand often make international news, they seem to have little impact on the daily lives of the locals (especially those in Chiang Mai, which is over 400 miles away from Bangkok). Most Thai people are optimistic, simple, and devout Buddhists. Regardless of the political turmoils in their country, they continue to live their lives diligently and dutifully. Our guide at Doi Inthanon told us that although the political arena in Thailand is filled with problems and corruption, what he loves the most about his country is how kind the Thai people are, and that Thai people always look out for each other, which we also had the fortune to experience during our trip.
My dad planned a variety of in-depth experiences in Chiang Mai: a river cruise on Mae Ping, a Northern Thai food cooking class, an elephant sanctuary, fishing, temple tours throughout the region, a hike in Doi Inthanon (the tallest mountain in Thailand), traditional handicrafts, Thai massage, and tons of delicious food and night markets — every day was fresh and fulfilling. Steven and my brother loved the cooking class, my dad was enthralled by the temples, and my favorite experience was the elephant sanctuary. Ever since my trip to Tanzania in 2024, I have been obsessed with large animals. The elephant march we saw on our last day in Serengeti was so impressive — I felt as if I could watch them march across the savanna forever. At the elephant sanctuary near Chiang Mai, visitors could interact closely with the elephants. Since humanity, conservation, and respect are the fundamental principles of the sanctuary, there are no elephant rides or shows. Instead, we learned about the elephants’ daily lives by interacting with them in their natural habitat. Our entire day basically consisted of feeding the elephants, taking a walk with them, watching them eat during the walk, having lunch ourselves, and then going on another walk with the elephants, watching them play in the mud, playing in the water with them in the afternoon, and feeding them one last time before we left. For me, this was probably the most “slow living” part of the entire trip — aside from being overjoyed at finally having the chance to get up close to elephants, the pace of the entire day was very slow and relaxing. When we went on walks with the elephants and played with them in the water, there was no set itinerary. We basically just followed the elephants around, stopping and starting as they pleased. When they saw something delicious, they would detour for a bite, and we would follow and watch them eat. When they saw a cool mud pool, they would rush to soak in it, and we would watch them push each other around in the mud until one elephant sat down in the mud, thwarting the others’ hopes for sharing the pool. When they rushed into the river to play, we would splash them with water, and I ended up getting a trunk full of water splashed on me. During the day, I focused on being in the moment and did not think of anything else — the intelligence and spirituality of the elephant herd touched my heart once again, and the joy brought by “slow living” warmed my heart.
Since I moved to the US by myself in 2009, I have always looked forward to going back to Taiwan to visit my family. In the past few years, thanks to Visa’s four-week “work anywhere” benefit, I have been able to extend my time in Taiwan, allowing me to travel and go on vacations with my family. These family trips are my most cherished memories. Before 2023, our last family trip was to Kaohsiung and Liuqiu Island in December 2012. After that, due to my dad’s situation, my mom’s health, my brother’s work, the COVID-19 pandemic, and other factors, our family was scattered. Until my mom passed away in 2020, we were unable to travel as a family again, which became a lingering regret in my heart. In December 2023, our family finally went on a trip together to Kyoto, a place my dad had longed to visit. It was then that I realized, for the past ten years or so, I have been like a tree striving to grow, desperately stretching my branches towards the sky to get more sunlight. But when I look down, all my nutrients and support have been coming from the roots buried deep in the ground — my dad, my brother, Steven, and my mom in Heaven are my roots. Now that my life and finances are more stable, I want to spend my time and money on what matters the most to me: my family. Therefore, after Kyoto, we went to Cambodia together in 2024, and then to Chiang Mai in 2025. I hope we can keep traveling together as a family. In addition, every trip has been an incredible growth experience for me, allowing me to step out of my comfort zone and explore the unknown world. By learning about the history and culture of other countries, I have learned to appreciate the wisdom and lifestyles of different people, which helps me stay humble. Reflecting on my travel experiences over the past few years, I gained a deep appreciation for the ancient Chinese wisdom — “reading ten thousand books” and “traveling ten thousand miles” truly complement each other and make me a better person.
Finally, I must mention the coconut ice cream that totally blew me away. My brother had Thai coconut ice cream before when he went to Bangkok, so on our very first day in the night market, he was searching for it with keen eyes. At first, I thought a huge portion of ice cream served in a giant coconut shell was just a gimmick for tourists, but I forgot that my brother, a former Michelin-starred chef, has very high standards for food. Ordinary desserts simply don’t meet his standards, and I should have known that if he goes out of his way to look for something, there must be something very special about it. Indeed, I was incredibly impressed by the taste. There are four key ingredients: coconut meat, coconut-flavored ice cream, peanuts, and pandan sticky rice. I am not too crazy about any of these ingredients individually, but together they created an exquisite flavor — a delightful blend of sweet and salty, like tasting a summer beach in Thailand. As a result, I ended up eating coconut ice every day in Chiang Mai—if I visit Thailand again, I absolutely want to have Thai coconut ice cream again!\
