Posted on

24歲時,我許下宏願要不斷拓展自己的視野,努力實踐「讀萬卷書,行萬里路」的精神,所以往後每一年生日,我都要探索一個以前未曾去過的地方,或做一件以前沒有做過的事情。過去的六年的生日裡,我的足跡遍及加州的猛獁山、巨杉國家公園、薩諾瑪湖、太浩湖、半穹頂,與紅木國家公園,見到了許多令我終身難忘的景色,充實了我的心靈,也讓我深刻的體認到為什麼「遠行者見聞廣」。

過去的一年裡,我經歷了許多大悲大喜、大起大落,也和先生一起完成了幾個人生的里程碑。如今我要邁入三字頭,算是一個新階段的開始,再加上自從新冠疫情爆發以來,我們鮮少出門,所以今年九月我們決定要踏出加州,到阿拉斯加去探索我們平常在美國本土見不到的景色。到了阿拉斯加之後,或許是因為我生長在一個亞熱帶小島的城市裡,我發現我似乎找不到詞彙來形容阿拉斯加廣袤原始的荒野帶給我的震撼。

不知從何時開始,我對世界各地的名山有著一股莫名的執著。我喜歡爬山,也喜歡仰望那些以我的程度和體力爬不了的高峰,所以我們一下了飛機,就直奔德納利國家公園。德納利山位於阿拉斯加山脈,是北美洲最高的山峰,海拔超過六千公尺。因為太過偏遠,加上山區常年雲霧繚繞,所以雖然德納利山十分巍峨高聳,但即使在國家公園內,平時也不易窺見她的廬山真面目。這次我們很幸運,因為天氣還算晴朗,在風雲變幻的間隙,得以看見遠方德納利瑩白的雙主峰——我這輩子第一次看見如此巨大雄偉、完全被冰雪覆蓋的山峰,瞬間被無盡的崇仰和敬畏淹沒,好一陣子才回過神來。在德納利國家公園,我也是第一次見到阿拉斯加的崇山峻嶺、亞北極繽紛的秋色,與山脈間的「江入大荒流」。雖然前幾天路上的土石坍方迫使我們縮短行程,但是德納利已經帶給我這輩子未曾體驗過的震撼。

我們也在阿拉斯加見到了許多以前沒有見過的野生動物。印象中我小時候只去過一次木柵動物園;來美國之後,去過一次芝加哥的謝德水族館和聖地牙哥的動物園。雖然動物們總是能帶給我不同的驚奇,但是這幾年動物紀錄片看多了,還是覺得動物們待在他們的原生環境最合適,對動物園也失去了興趣。這次我們在德納利看見了五大野生動物中,除了灰狼之外的其他四種:巨大卻靈敏的灰熊、生活在陡峭岩壁間的白大角羊、頂著巨大鹿角的馴鹿,和站起來超過兩公尺高的駝鹿。(回程路上,有一隻灰熊不知怎麼地晃到了馬路上,我們還放慢速度,在牠背後跟了好一陣子。)在安克拉治,我們造訪了以救治和保護野生動物為宗旨的阿拉斯加野生動物保育中心。除了上述的四種動物之外,我們還看見了壯碩無比的美洲野牛和麝牛、矯健的馬鹿、看似無害的黑熊、渾身是刺的豪豬、神氣活現的白頭鷹,與美麗卻致命的北極狼。在基奈峽灣國家公園,成群結隊的殺人鯨為我們帶來一場盛大的表演,海獅、海豹、海獺和海鸚鵡也悠閒地向我們展示了牠們的生活,讓我再一次心折於造物主的偉大和神奇。

這趟旅行最令我感到震撼的體驗,就是我這輩子第一次親眼看見了冰河。從國中到研究所,我在地理和地科的課堂上學過許多遍冰河的侵蝕作用和各種冰河地形,我也親眼見過冰河造就的北美五大湖、優勝美地的U型谷和懸谷、三一縣阿爾卑斯、沙斯塔山和拉森火山,但是我從來沒有見過這些地形的幕後推手。當我在基奈峽灣第一次見到巨大得超乎想像、泛著幽幽藍光的冰河、聽見冰河撼人心魄的雷鳴,與見證冰河邊緣破裂落入海中形成冰山時,除了難以言喻的敬畏與震撼之外,以前在書本上學過的知識瞬間在腦海中融會貫通,我終於明白了以前見過的各種冰河地形是如何形成的,也對「讀萬卷書,行萬里路」有了更深一層的體會。

近幾年來,走過的地方越多,就越明白為什麼古人成年時總是要壯遊天下,因為天地間的靈氣與廣袤的山川能給我們的心靈帶來無比的感動與震撼,造物主的鬼斧神工也能令人感到無比的敬畏與謙卑。我很幸運,在過去近十年間能透過旅行不斷地拓展視野、提升自我。三十歲之後,我期許自己能保持一顆年輕又謙卑的心,繼續「讀萬卷書,行萬里路」。

(親愛的媽媽,我帶了妳的外套去了阿拉斯加。妳也跟我一起看見了阿拉斯加的美景了嗎?)


When I turned 24, I made a big wish to keep broadening my horizons and living up to the spirit of an ancient Chinese saying, “Read ten thousand books, travel ten thousand miles.” Therefore, on every birthday after that, I went to a place I have never been to, saw something I have never seen, or did something I have never done before. On my past six birthdays, I traveled to Mammoth Mountain, Sequoia National Park, Lake Sonoma, Lake Tahoe, Half Dome, and Redwood National Park. I saw many unforgettable sceneries, which really filled my heart up with wonders and made me understand why “he that travels far knows much.”

In the past year, I experienced some major ups and downs, and accomplished a few milestones with Steve. Since I am turning 30 (which is sort of a new stage of life) and we did not travel much due to COVID since the beginning of 2020, this year we decided to venture out of California and go to Alaska so that we can see things that we don’t normally see in the contiguous US. Perhaps it’s because I grew up in a city on a sub-tropical island, I found it extremely difficult to find words to accurately describe how Alaska’s vast, pristine wilderness hit my heart.

I have some weird obsession with famous mountains around the world. I like to hike big mountains, as well as admiring the peaks that I can’t climb with my strength and techniques. Therefore, we went straight to Denali National Park after we landed in Alaska. Denali is part of the Alaska range; it is the tallest mountain in North America with an elevation of over 20,000 ft. However, since it is so remote and the mountain range is often hidden behind clouds and fog, it is not easy to see Denali even though it is so giant and prominent. We got pretty lucky this time – the weather was nice and the sky was partially clear, so we were able to see Denali’s bright white twin peaks from a distance. This was my first time seeing such a huge, majestic, completely snow-covered mountain, and I was completely overwhelmed by endless awe and admiration. At Denali, I also saw the great Alaska range, the beautiful subarctic fall colors, and the wide rivers that flow between mountains. Although the landslide on Denali Park road earlier in the week cut our trip short, Denali has already impressed me in a way that nothing else ever did.

We also saw a lot of wildlife that we have never seen before. I have only been to the Taipei Zoo once when I saw little; after coming to the US, I visited Shedd Aquarium in Chicago and the San Diego Zoo. Although animals always bring me joy and wonder, after watching many animal documentaries in the past few years, I feel like it is best for animals to stay in their natural habitats, and I slowly lost interest in zoos. At Denali, we saw four out of the five major wild animals except for the grey wolves: giant yet agile grizzly bears, Dall sheep that live among the steep cliffs, caribous with large antlers, and moose that are over 2 meters tall. (On our way back, a grizzly bear somehow wandered onto the road. We slowed down and followed it around for quite a while.) In Anchorage, we visited the Anchorage Wildlife Conservation Center. In addition to the four types of animals above, we also saw enormous bison and musk ox, athletic elks, seemingly harmless black bears, spiky porcupines, proud bald eagles, and beautiful yet deadly Arctic wolves. In Kenai Fjords National Park, the orcas put on a grand show for us. Sea lions, seals, sea otters, and puffins casually showed us how they live their lives, once again humbling me.

The most remarkable experience on this trip for me is seeing glaciers for the very first time in my life. From middle school to graduate school, I have learned a lot about glacial corrosion and glacial landforms in geology and earth science classes. I have also seen various glacial landforms in the US: the Great Lakes, the U-shaped valleys and hanging valleys in Yosemite, Trinity Alps, Mt. Shasta, and Lassen Peak. However, I have never seen the great force that shaped these landforms. In Kenai Fjords National Park, I was completely speechless when I saw the gigantic, glowing blue glaciers, when I heard their thundering and cracking, and when I witnessed how the edge of a glacier broke off into the ocean and formed an iceberg. All the knowledge I learned from books suddenly came together. I can finally see how all the grand glacial landforms are formed, and gain a deeper understanding of “read ten thousand books, travel ten thousand miles.”

In the past few years, the more I travel, the more I understand why the ancients take Grand Tours when they came to age. The great mountains and vast rivers can move our hearts in a way unlike anything else, and Mother Nature’s extraordinary work can inspire and humble our souls. I have been fortunate enough in the past decade to keep broadening my horizons and enriching my knowledge through traveling. After I turn 30, I hope I can maintain a young and humble heart, and continue to “read ten thousand books, travel ten thousand miles.”

(Dear Mom, I brought your coat with me to Alaska. Did you get to see the majestic Alaska scenery with me?)